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History could show that August was a watershed
month for the department store sector. Mervyns
(177 stores) and Boscov’s (73) declared
bankruptcy and, in Germany, three chains —
Hertie (72 stores), Wehmeyer (40) and
SinnLeffers (47) also declared insolvency.
While the stores will try to remain open, I
believe it signals a rationalization of their
existing store base and a reduction of the
workforce. Immediately, a leading German
newspaper published a scathing article about the
“death of department stores.”
I do not concur with the assessment of the
German Financial Times; I do believe, however,
that the current hostile environment will force
other companies that have shown sharp declines
in sales to examine their future course of
action.
There are several reasons why these companies
are now scrutinizing their operations, closing
stores and considering management changes. Some
may even have the guts to change merchandise
assortments in order to attract more customers.
In some cases, stores were in poor locations —
such as the units that Boscov’s acquired from
the May Company when Federated (now Macy’s)
acquired the company. At the time, Federated
sold more than 80 stores to others; it now seems
obvious that some of the stores that were not
right for Macy’s are poorly situated for others,
too. Similarly, in Germany, the investment
infusion in Hertie did not result in better
sales.
Focus on target customer
I also believe that department stores can no
longer attempt to appeal to everyone; they must
be focused on classifications that reach their
target customer. Department stores are competing
with specialty stores like Bed Bath & Beyond and
Best Buy, which sell home furnishings and
appliances in broader assortments and at very
sharp prices.
Some of the companies that have become insolvent
had weak entrenched management teams that did
not react quickly to the environment or changing
customer demands. And a host of new competitors
like Abercrombie & Fitch, Aeropostale, C&A, H&M,
Esprit, Hollister, Mango or Zara appeal to young
people who do not want to shop in traditional
department stores.
While motivated by improved profit margins, the
current trend of featuring as much as 40 percent
of soft goods in private labels does not always
reflect consumers’ tastes. I believe that the
average customer shops for style, quality and
fit first: Only when customers have found a
product that they like do they examine whether
the price represents good value.
Embrace change
Efforts to attract customers with aggressive
promotions is not reflective of how the customer
shops; this holds true even in the current
consumer recession. Right now, the customer is
cherry-picking for value during sales, but if
stores cater to that attitude by offering more
sale goods they will ruin their image and future
growth potential. It is bad enough that
clearances often choke stores.
The challenge for department stores is not to
meet last year’s sales figures, but to embrace
change — to win recognition as an innovative
retailer in any season and in any environment.
Companies must streamline their operations and
be willing to re-examine their assortments; the
customer will be attracted to excitement and
will trust a company that understands her needs. |